Day 117, Barkeaters

In the middle of the night, some creature nested itself in the vestibule of my tent. The rain fly extends off the side of the tent about two feet to provide some ground space that won't get wet during a storm, but outside the main part of the tent.

I was too afraid to poke it or shoo it away in case it was a skunk. The last thing I need is to be sprayed by a skunk.

It kept me awake for a couple hours during the torrential downpour. Eventually the critter scurried away, letting me get a tiny bit of sleep before sunrise.

The break in the rain was short. Enough to pack up camp, hurry to the nearest coffee joint about five miles away and hunker down for the next storm.

I sat there for three hours, not in the mood to ride in the rain and get wet. During the next break in the rain, I took off and made it a few miles, before the next wave of rain showed up. Thankfully, at the exact time I passed an unused, covered produce stand.

Lunch time.

After that, the weather behaved.

About ten miles out of Watertown, I opted to avoid the city, and head straight into the mountains.

The scenery was the best I've seen in a while. Beautiful forests and rolling hills.

And at the plateau, an incredible section of small farming towns, mostly Amish, and tons of windmills.

While descending from the plateau into the town of Lowville, I saw two things. The first was an Amish guy maneuvering a dual horse drawn buggy across the road to a nearby field - the first non-motorized vehicle I've seen so far.

The second was a massive helicopter mounted to a pole on the side of the road.

Once in town, I found the Barkeaters.

Barkeater is a small brewery just off the main street of Lowville New York. I rode past, saw it was opened and descided to take a peek inside.

I was greeted by the bartender (later learning he was the owner), saying my eyes would adjust to the dimly lit area. They had four brews on tap and I tried their double IPA.

It was absolutely fantastic.

Dean, the owner, told me about the history of the brewery, the small test batches they brew in the back room and the production facility they have down the road.

Also at the bar was Doug, a local, that upon finding out I was traveling by bike, said I could crash at his place tonight. He said, you can ride there, or I'll be back around 10 to pick you up.

Doug had toured via bicycle in the past, and was also an avid mountain biker. He currently spends his time working on custom tattoos and body art. He took off an said he'd be back later.

I also met Jim & Mary Anne, sitting next to me at the bar, and had a wonderful conversation with them.

The rain picked up so I stayed.

Dean recommended the restaurant next door and I ordered a salad to go. Greens rarely keep on the road, so any chance I can get some fresh veggies, I jump on it. Dean is quite an artist. I learned that he created all of the art on the wall - exquisite drawings of nature and animals (in charcoal I think...).

A solo guitarist started playing in the corner of the brewery - Brittany. She was great, playing a mix of original songs and classics.

Dean, concocting a backup plan just in case Doug didn't return, told me to put my bike in the basement to keep it dry. He said I could crash in his spare bedroom if I needed to.

But, sure enough, around ten, Doug returned with a few friends. One was Pauline, about my age, who just quit her job (today) and was thinking about traveling around the country on bike.

What is the irony of that?

I hope I convinced her to embark on a cycle tour.

Brittany ended her set with some original songs, we loaded my bike in the truck, and headed to Doug's place.

Thank you so much to everyone I met - bursting with generosity, kindness and friendship. Dean, Doug, Jim, Mary Anne, Pauline, Brittany & everyone else - I hope our paths cross again.

I wish you the best. Thank you.

Joe.