Day 109, Pennsylvania

I stopped at a really nice pavilion in the Lake Erie Bluffs Park after packing up camp. Complete with restrooms, an outdoor cooking area and power, I started making coffee.

Overhead, a small red bi-plane started performing various maneuvers in the air. They became increasingly more complex, with the plane frequently traveling straight up, stalling the engine, free falling backwards and then finally regaining control.

Usually my morning coffee is a peaceful, relaxing part of the day. This was not.

I was joined by a couple from Ohio that were also in awe of the pilot. This continued for about fifteen minutes, until the plane straightened out and flew west, as if that performance was normal.

That couple moved on and a few minutes later I met another group exploring the bluffs.

Larry, Lynn, Ellen & Tom.

We had a great conversation about traveling, especially regarding the Grand Canyon. We agreed that it looks fake, almost like a backdrop has been pulled down in front of you. It is the combination of the sheer size of the canyon, something you've never seen before, with the atmospheric haze that makes it look surreal.

Tom will be hiking from the south rim to the north rim and back in October with his son and grandson. Have fun & be safe! Make sure you bring enough water.

They also told me about this massive tower you can climb to get a great view of the lake. Thank you for the suggestion!

As the four of them meandered off down the path towards the tower, I met Gloria.

She was setting up chairs and tables in the pavilion for a senior olympics lunch. She regularly cycles and kayaks, but spends most of her time getting seniors outside on adventures.

Gloria has been in this position for several years while working for the metroparks organization.

Gloria, you are inspiring.

Just down the crushed limestone path I found the tower:

The view from the top was incredible, you can see Lake Erie above the trees in the cover photo for this blog post.

There was also a massive plume of steam from the one of the stacks at a nuclear power plant just up the beach.

I always find the contrast of heavy industrial equipment and machinery set in nature fascinating. I found a clearing in the forest for power lines, just up the road, with another view of the power plant.

On this topic, when the industrial setting is abandoned, I like it even more. There is an eerie presence (get it...? the pun...) around defunct human creations being overcome by nature; returning to their original state.

I passed a town that seemed to exist only to support another power plant.

Right across the street, on the water, was the remnants of the old facility.

Thousands of birds were nesting on the roof of the brick building.

It is hard to see in the photo, but grass and other plants are tearing through the concrete, taking over the power station.

From there, it was a short ride to the Pennsylvania border where a small section of the state runs along the lake.

I stopped at the sign to take a picture, as I always do. However this time, a car stopped and a guy hopped out and offered to take the photo so I could be in it.

This is Joe, the photographer.

He said that whenever he sees travelers on bikes or just walking, he makes a point to stop and talk to them.

He even gave me his address in case I needed a place to camp tonight.

Thank you Joe!

I pressed on, heading towards North East (which ironically is a town in north west Pennsylvania) to the Warmshowers host I had lined up for the evening.

The land turned into grape country - it smelled more like grape juice than the typical sulfur smell I associate with vineyards. I later learned that the grapes in this region are consumed by Welch's for their juice products.

I met my incredible Warmshowers hosts for the night, Mike, Natalie and their two children. Quite the adventurous family, they welcomed me into their home as if we've known each other for years.

Mike is a statistician and programmer, so we stayed up way too late talking about math.

Joe