One of the friendliest towns I've visited in the last four months is Hokah, Minnesota. That morning, I set out from Chatfield, heading towards Wisconsin.
Bicycling along the Root River on the Root River State Trail was recommended to me, and I welcome the change of pace. Getting off the highways is always nice.
From Chatfield, I had a short ride through more farm country to the trailhead in Fountain Minnesota. The 40 mile east-west segment would take me to Houston and from there, brave the highway again towards La Crosse, Wisconsin.
The beginning of the trail in Fountain was strange, winding through cornfields but eventually giving way to a forested section among what the locals call "bluffs." Not really mountains, nor rolling hills, their bluffs block the wind and provide a nice change of pace.
Despite reading about the varying condition of the trail, where some parts were apparently in need of repair, I found the trail very smooth - easily cruising at 15 mph.
In one of the small towns on the trail, I met Dan & Beth.
Residing in Iowa, they are traveling around the area. My fellow cyclist Dave suggested that I find a farmer that would let me drive some of their massive tractors - maybe even stay a few days and help out (also reinforced by the workstay programs I learned about from Sheila and Rusty from Idaho!). I ran this idea by Dan, and he said that he worked for John Deere for over thirty years.
However, despite working for them, and living in a predominately agricultural area, he had not once driven a tractor.
Never.
We both have tractor driving goals now. Go Dan!
I planned to stop and grab a slice of world famous pie. Sitting a couple feet off the bike path in Whalen, the Aroma Pie Shop serves pie to the numerous cyclists that pass through the town. Unfortunately, they were closed.
The one day I ride through Whalen...
But I survived. The trail is just so pretty.
After weeks of cornfields (I know, I know, I keep bringing it up), the change is very welcome.
The trail ended in Houston, where I I found a nature center that included a primitive campground and free showers. I cleaned up, but only fifty miles into the ride and wanting to accomplish more, I moved on.
On the highway, the weather turned rainy, but I didn't don any rain gear. The cool weather and light precipitation felt wonderful.
The weather clearing up over one of 10,000 lakes in Minnesota.x`
Just around sunset, I stopped in a town called Hokah. They had a baseball field just off the main drag that looked like a great place to camp. But, before I setup, I wanted to grab some food - the only place open was the Main Street Saloon. Outside, the joint was desolate - I was in for a surprise.
Inside, I met the most friendly people in the world.
Lisa, the bartender was incredible. All the patrons, equally incredible. I ended up staying for an hour or two talking to everyone there.
I met Sandy & Greg Littlejohn - locals that made me feel at home. Sandy told me about her job, working for a hospital, and the outreach program she is embarking on in the reservation near Scenic, South Dakota - a city I passed through en-route to the Badlands.
They suggested I camp at Como Falls Park, located just beyond the fire department in town. Just like the bike trail I rode on for most of the day, camping next to some lulling falls sounds amazing - and nicer than a baseball field.
Lisa suggested I sign the ceiling of their place - similar to the ritual of pinning a dollar bill to the ceiling. She gave me a sharpie, and while standing on a bar stool, commemorated the moment.
She also told me to find a food truck called Apothik in La Crosse tomorrow.
Thank you Sandy, Greg, everyone in the Main Street Saloon and Hokah, Minnesota for making me feel at home.
You are amazing.
Joe